Days 30-31: In which we learn about the underrated potato

08.18-19.2009: The potato used to be among the most important foods in classical cuisine, says Gisslen. Gratin Dauphinoise, duchesse potatoes - the names attest to the tuber's place in the kitchens of the aristocracy.

While its place in the spotlight has been superceded by flashier, more glamorous starches such as pasta, the potato is still an important part of classical and contemporary cuisine.

For demo day, chef Vic showed us how to make French fries, gratin dauphinoise, duchesse potatoes, croquettes and whipped/mashed potato.

Croquettes:


Whipped/mashed potatoes:


Gratin Dauphinoise (pronounced "dohffanWAH") reminds me of a potato-based lasagna. You cut the potatoes as you would potato chips, then layer the chips alternately with a milk, cream and garlic mixture in a pan or dish. This is baked for up to 20 minutes until a crust forms on top. I didn't find the Dauphinoise very impressive at first because it had only a few basic ingredients - potatoes, milk, cream, garlic and salt - but was pleasantly surprised by its cheese-like umami-ness when I took a bite.

Duchesse potatoes use the same basic recipe as whipped/mashed potatoes, but are piped from a pastry bag. They are mostly used as decorations.


And since we're talking about all things potato, here's "The Potato Eaters" by Vincent van Gogh, one of my favorite artists:

Currying flavor

I'd been hankering for curry and potatoes for some time, more so when I found out that turmeric has cancer preventing properties (An Apple a Day, Joe Schwarz, PhD).

I took some unpeeled baby potatoes and parboiled them for five minutes, dunking them afterwards in cold water before peeling and cutting them into chunks. Then I chopped a whole tomato and a large clove of garlic and layered them inside an aluminum foil pouch, placing the tomatoes first, then the garlic and the potatoes. Over this I sprinkled the curry powder and some chili powder, then a generous drizzle of olive oil. You can add salt if you want but I don't, since my salad dressing is already seasoned.

I closed up the packet but left a small opening for steam to escape, then placed this on a wire strainer suspended over a pot with just enough water to cover the bottom of the pot, or about 1/8 cup. I replaced the lid of the pot, set my stove to its lowest setting and let the whole thing cook for 45-60 minutes. You'll know it's done when the tomatoes' skins look like they're about to curl up, or when their flesh gives little resistance when prodded with a spoon. All the while the dish is roasting, a perfume of turmeric and roasting garlic fills my room with a sweet pungency.


The yellow of the potatoes is enhanced by the turmeric, while the brilliant red tomatoes provide a pretty complement. The dish is a good accompaniment to a vegetable salad with a mild-flavored dressing, or to fried, roasted or baked meat.