I worry about being too old - I turn the big three-o this year - to successfully change careers. People like to say it's just a number and I desperately want to believe in that fantasy, but I know I will be confronted by the physical, plenty-of-heavy-lifting aspect of my new career, as well as its ugly, ageist face: older chefs are much less appealing to employers because they are seen to take fewer culinary risks (and offer less adventure and surprises to diners).I wish I'd heard the kitchen's call as early as 13-year-old Greg Grossman.

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